• Piaggio Mp3 300 Yourban Workshop Manual

Th e d es cr ip t io ns an d im ag es in t h is p u bl ic at io n ar e g iv en f or il lu st ra t iv e p ur p os es on ly an d ar e no t bi nd in g. While the basic c haracteristics as des cribed and illustrated in t his booklet rem ain unchanged, P iaggio & C. Res erves the right, at any tim e and without being required t o update th is publication beforehand, to m ake any changes to component s, parts or acces sories, which it cons iders neces sary to imp rove the product or which are required for manufact uring or c onstruct ion reas ons.

Not all versions/models shown in this publication are available in all countries. The availability of each model should be checked at the official PIAGGIO sales network. ©Copyright 2012 - Piaggio & C. All rights reserved.

Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part is prohibited. P iag gio & C. Viale Rinald o P iag gio, 25 - 56 02 5 PO NTE DER A (P I), Italy www.piaggio.com. Th is w or k sh op m an u al h as b ee n d r aw n up b y Piag g io & C. Spa t o b e u se d b y t h e w or k sh op s of Piag g io - Gilera dealers. This manual is addressed to Piaggio service mechanics who are supposed to have a basic knowledge of mechanics principles and of vehicle mounting techniques and procedures.

Any important changes made to the vehicles or to specific mounting operations will be promptly reported by updat es to this manu al. Nevertheless, no moun ting work can be s atisfactory if th e neces sary equipment and tools are unavailable.

It is therefore advisable to read the sections of this manual relating to special tools, along with the special tool catalogue.

Piaggio Mp3 300 Yourban Workshop Manual

Hi, Spencer for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Piaggio, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Apr 15, 2018. Hi, Filip before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is 'IMPERATIVE' that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper 'LOAD' test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. Ignition Switch not in the 'ON' position.

Engine Run Switch in the 'OFF' position. Engine Run Switch is 'FAULTY' or corroded. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at 'BOTH' ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, 'INSIDE' and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.

FOB battery low or dead. Faulty ignition switch. Faulty starter button. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch. Security alarm needs a reset.

Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty. Starter armature or field coils have failed. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty. Faulty ignition relay. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed. Check for engine trouble codes. For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below.

Good luck and have a wonderful day. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Jan 26, 2018. Hi, Robertsmith first check for continuity at the power and ground wire at the horn, then check for continuity at the horn button, back in the day there was a small adjustment screw on the back of the horn, by turning it one way or the other you could set the limit on how much the diaphragm vibrated.

For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Apr 19, 2017. Hi, Andi and the usual suspects are: 1. Fuel tank empty. The fuel tank has old dead gas. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.

Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off. Fouled spark plugs. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.

Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.

Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked. Carburetor float stuck. Fuel injectors clogged. Fuel injectors stuck open.

Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper 'LOAD' test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at 'BOTH' ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, 'INSIDE' and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.

Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.

A stuck bent or burnt valve. Tilt sensor needs a reset.

Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset. Check for engine trouble codes. For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Mar 09, 2015. Hi, Pfuzz59 and the usual suspects are: 1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery must have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper 'LOAD' test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. Faulty alternator/generator and or voltage regulator. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the 'NEGATIVE' cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at 'BOTH' ends. Faulty main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.

Faulty system and or ignition relay, check for continuity. Faulty ignition coil, ignition/electronic module. Faulty CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch. Fuel tank empty 11. Fuel tank contaminated with ethanol sludge.

Water or dirt in the fuel system, or clogged filter. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line. Faulty fuel pump. Faulty pressure regulator. Faulty or clogged fuel injectors. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment. For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below.

Good luck and have a wonderful day. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Jul 20, 2017.